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I don't know much about how electrical components work, I just tried to make it look like it would work from a fantasy perspective. I was thinking along the lines of what demon said, like a battery pack in the grip with a power dial on the butt of the grip, with an unscrew-able pommel. Would 100 volts with a gradual dial of 10mA - 100mAmps be strong enough to kill a person?

Mass, how would a wireless external pack work?

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Would 100 volts with a gradual dial of 10mA - 100mAmps be strong enough to kill a person?

No, your battery pack would deliver DC and DC power is not that potent. 30-50 mA on the heart is fatal if we talk about AC power (120 V).

For DC power, I don't know how much ampere you need in order to kill. *is googling*

300-500 mA DC power can cause cardiac arrest.

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Would 100 volts with a gradual dial of 10mA - 100mAmps be strong enough to kill a person?

No, your battery pack would deliver DC and DC power is not that potent. 30-50 mA on the heart is fatal if we talk about AC power (120 V).

For DC power, I don't know how much ampere you need in order to kill. *is googling*

300-500 mA DC power can cause cardiac arrest.

So direct current is weaker? That seems odd, but ok. So i'd be better putting 100mA-500mA on the dial. What about the voltage for DC?

I'm only asking this because I have no idea how a wireless Tesla alternative would work, unless Mass would like to explain. :P

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Would 100 volts with a gradual dial of 10mA - 100mAmps be strong enough to kill a person?

No, your battery pack would deliver DC and DC power is not that potent. 30-50 mA on the heart is fatal if we talk about AC power (120 V).

For DC power, I don't know how much ampere you need in order to kill. *is googling*

300-500 mA DC power can cause cardiac arrest.

So direct current is weaker? That seems odd, but ok. So i'd be better putting 100mA-500mA on the dial. What about the voltage for DC?

I think the frequency in which AC power alternate (50 Hz in Europe) makes it more dangerous than DC, but I'm on thin ice here. I shoot from the hip and hope I'm somewhat on the target.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_shock

The minimum current a human can feel depends on the current type (AC or DC) and frequency. A person can feel at least 1 mA (rms) of AC at 60 Hz, while at least 5 mA for DC. The current may, if it is high enough, cause tissue damage or fibrillation which leads to cardiac arrest. 60 mA of AC (rms, 60 Hz) or 300–500 mA of DC can cause fibrillation.[2][3] A sustained electric shock from AC at 120 V, 60 Hz is an especially dangerous source of ventricular fibrillation because it usually exceeds the let-go threshold, while not delivering enough initial energy to propel the person away from the source. However, the potential seriousness of the shock depends on paths through the body that the currents take.[2] Death caused by an electric shock is called electrocution.

If the voltage is less than 200 V, then the human skin, more precisely the stratum corneum, is the main contributor to the impedance of the body in the case of a macroshock—the passing of current between two contact points on the skin. The characteristics of the skin are non-linear however. If the voltage is above 450–600 V, then dielectric breakdown of the skin occurs.[4] The protection offered by the skin is lowered by perspiration, and this is accelerated if electricity causes muscles to contract above the let-go threshold for a sustained period of time.

The article is much longer than this and I've not read it. Hopefully I've not said something wrong, but I can't guarantee it.

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Would 100 volts with a gradual dial of 10mA - 100mAmps be strong enough to kill a person?

No, your battery pack would deliver DC and DC power is not that potent. 30-50 mA on the heart is fatal if we talk about AC power (120 V).

For DC power, I don't know how much ampere you need in order to kill. *is googling*

300-500 mA DC power can cause cardiac arrest.

So direct current is weaker? That seems odd, but ok. So i'd be better putting 100mA-500mA on the dial. What about the voltage for DC?

I'm only asking this because I have no idea how a wireless Tesla alternative would work, unless Mass would like to explain. :P

You'll want to use AC. Fuck Thomas Edison.

Also, the easiest way to do a wireless version without copy/pasting one of Tesla's essays is an insulated sleeve worn under a pauldron, arm guards, and gauntlet with a few small coils (no more than an inch in length to keep them from getting in the way) running down the length of the arm. The battery pack (presumably worn either on the back or between the pauldron and the sleeve) would send a current through the coils, down the arm, into the pommel, through the handle (under the grip, of course) and into the coils and blade. An added bonus of this is that the gauntlet is a potent weapon in it's own right, so being disarmed doesn't mean you're unarmed.

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You'll want to use AC. Fuck Thomas Edison.

Also, the easiest way to do a wireless version without copy/pasting one of Tesla's essays is an insulated sleeve worn under a pauldron, arm guards, and gauntlet with a few small coils (no more than an inch in length to keep them from getting in the way) running down the length of the arm. The battery pack (presumably worn either on the back or between the pauldron and the sleeve) would send a current through the coils, down the arm, into the pommel, through the handle (under the grip, of course) and into the coils and blade. An added bonus of this is that the gauntlet is a potent weapon in it's own right, so being disarmed doesn't mean you're unarmed.

AC from batteries? I don't know if that's possible, I've never seen nor heard about an AC battery. But of course would AC be desirable.

A battery pack worn on the body allow more power, but also the risk of electrocuting yourself as a result of battle damage, accident or malfunction.

Wireless version? Electric power can be wireless, but do consider the risk of the current taking the wrong way. I wouldn't want wireless.

But if we go far enough into science fiction, then there should be a solution for this little problem too...

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The gauntlet sounds interesting, I may do that at a later date. For now I'm still finishing up on the in-game model which is only 800 poly's :D

Here is a couple of real-time images of the electric broadsword:

Electric-BroadSword.png

I'm just working on the textures atm.

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It looks better and better. How big is it? It'd be nice to have something to measure it against.

I'm not sure if the proportions of the grip is right, maybe knowing the measurements would answer this.

When i first started building it, the full length was around 150cm from pommel to blade tip. It may have changed a bit since then though. I think it may have got a bit longer.

@Zacko - thanks buddy (Y)

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I started an environment diorama for my portfolio today. I'm still in the blocking stages at the moment. I was inspired by RDR no doubt, but i want a sort of cartoon'ish look. For example the wooden planks will be a little crooked, and not your generic shape, the houses will have a crooked look to them also.

I don't quite know how far I'll get with this before I run out of steam, but I'll try my best to follow it through to the end. I need something decent for my website anyway!

Early layout:

OldWestProject.jpg

Any ideas or suggestions would be helpful :)

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Guest Marney

I had a link somewhere to a R* dev's website where he showed off loads of his work during the production phase of Red Dead, if I can find it I'll let you know.

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If crooked and cartoony is the look you're after, look no further than Fable 2 for inspiration. Fable 2's art style could be applied to any game and make it look charming.

fable_ii_2.jpg

fable2_large.jpg

Fable2_Town_by_skybolt.jpg

fable_2_xbox_360_17630.jpg

Fable_2_dry_town.jpg

Fable2a-lg.jpg

fable-2-20080220003908929.jpg

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@Marn - That would be useful cheers.

@Mass - Thanks buddy, exactly the style i was thinking of. This is what i've made so far in hi-poly, hope to get something in-game like this.

OldWest021.jpg

(It's not finished. Just thought I'd post to show off the style)

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Cheers. I took your advice. I'm almost finished now. Just need a shop sign, a back door and I'm good to go on the low poly model.

Shop_House022.jpg

Hmm i don't know what shop to make it. I did plan on making two or three shops and then a few other generic western town assets like water towers and a mining track.

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@D-O - Lolz thanks buddy. Was that a come-on? ;)

@Mass - Yeah i went with the gun store idea in the end. Have been thinking of loads of random names to make it a bit comical. It's going to be either "Billy's Arm n' Load" or "Lock n' Larry's" with "Guns New & Used" under it.

Here is the final low-poly model for in-game. I'm still working on the Textures at the moment. There is so much highh-res detail going on, i had to use 3 texture sheets!

LowPolyComplete_TextureWiP.jpg

I may still dress it with more assets once I've finished the textures..

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I'm still working on the 'Old West' project, but i have a portfolio to build, and have loads of other projects on the go. One of them which I'd say is almost complete is this old industrial train carriage I'm building. At the moment I'm only making a high poly model, but there is no reason that i wont go back and create an in-game version in the future!

HP_Train_01.jpg

Critique, comment or like.

Thanks.

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Here's an email about that from my tutor:

Newfoundland games modification has just been signed by EA :)

Hello Ladies and Gentlemen

I am just putting together the bits and pieces that you submitted for the Newfoundland games modification. Could you please email me your source files so I can piece together the start of a MOD and I can add it to what I have created. The folder you submitted is all tide up with the exam board bundle and I don’t want to hunt through the work as it will take me hours.

If you could upload it on to jumbofiles - http://www.jumbofiles.com/ and give me a still image in the reply email I would really appreciate it.

Best Wishes,

Neil

I sent him my files, and he's compiling it all together the next couple of weeks i think.

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